Need advice on folding and scoring photo paper

Claudette Hanscom · 02-01-12, 11:39 PM

I just started making my cards on Matte Photo paper, 200 gsm. I am not sure if the problem is because it was maybe not the best quality, but when I score and fold the paper, it's cracking on the opposite side....

How can I score and fold without this happening?? Should I score on both side of the paper? Thanks!!

Claudette

Deborah Braun · 03-01-12, 12:00 AM

I have only used photo paper for making toppers, not as the card base so I have not experienced this type of problem. However, I would think that it possibly could be the quality of the paper. The other thing is what method are you using to score the paper. Are you using something like a Scor-Pal or Martha Stewart scoring board, or running along side a ruler? You may be pressing down to hard with the folding bone, or possibly using the point of the bone instead of using the longer edge. Just some suggestions! You could try gently scoring on both sides of the paper before trying to fold. I'm sure there will be other crafters coming along with other ideas.

Gwyneth George · 03-01-12, 12:05 AM

I'd definately think about scoreing lightely several times on both sides, rather than heavily once on one side. Or perhaps scoreing on a different side to the one you currently score on. The method and tool of scoreing can also have an affect on cracking. But the fact is that some paper/cardstock will never fold without cracking, no matter how well scored, because of the finish on the card. You could try photo paper from a different manufacturer to see if you get the same problem. You could think about disguising the cracking. One good method is to get metalic marker pens and running that all round the card edges, including the fold line, to give a different look and disguise any cracking. You could tie some ribbon or string down the spine of the card as well to cover the cracking. Don't know whether your paper weights are different in the USA because I wouldn't be using 200gsm weight paper as a card base for scoring in any case. I'd be printing on photo paper that weight and then cutting and sticking onto a heavier weight base card, thus meaning that there would be no need to score photo paper. But that's just my preference.

Have a play and see what happens.

GG

Claudette Hanscom · 03-01-12, 12:06 AM

Deborah, I am using the Martha Steward scoring board. I resorted to matte photo paper on the base becaue I am having such a hard time finding a higher gsm paper...I have been using 110 pound card stock and find it flimsy for some of the box shaped cards and the drawers on some of the easel cards....I love making Julie Hills cards where it looks like a box but when you open it, it's got four little gift boxes...I need a heavier stock for that so I tried the card stock...

I do tend to use the pointy edge of the bone and find myself trying to be careful....

What do you use for the base of your cards??? And where do you get it. I am in the United States also and find that most stores do not carry heavier card stocks....

Thanks for your input...

Claudette

Claudette Hanscom · 03-01-12, 12:10 AM

GG....you don't have that problem with heavy card stock??? It is difficult finding heavier card stock here in the u.s. I am going to have to check some online stores I guess......See...I thought people were printing their cards no photo paperl..Duh....now that I think about that...how crazy would that be, price wise??? Funny how you can learn the most common sense things on here.....

Thank you for your suggestions....I think I am going to just use the photo paper for elements then....makes sense.....Boy, do I feel stupid now......(laughing).

Sandie Burchell · 03-01-12, 02:04 AM

I use photo paper for everything, I find the colours look more vibrant!

The key to it not cracking when you score and fold is to score it very gently several times which prevents taking the photo coating off and when you use your bone folder press it down on to the fold rather than dragging across.

Sandie

Claudette Hanscom · 03-01-12, 03:20 AM

Sandie, I will give it a try....thank you so much for your advice. Should I score on both sides? Oh...and by the way....I just adore your card designs......

Claudette

Deborah Braun · 03-01-12, 05:09 AM

I have a Scor-Pal and Martha Stewart. The Scor-Pal has wider grooves and bone, so it does not cut into the cardstock, depending on finish of the cardstock. I don't have the patience to press, so I drag but avoid using the point. I get my cardstock from a scrapbooking store, mostly at Archiver's, I don't know if you have one in New Hampshire. I like colored card bases, but you can get just white if you prefer. Scrapbooking cardstock come in 12x12 and 8.5x11. I can't tell you what the weight of them though.

Jolis DeAngelis · 03-01-12, 03:21 PM

Claudette, another thing to check is to make sure you are scoring on the correct side. The side you score becomes the outside of the card. I have MS score board also, and here's what I do for really heavy card stock:

First, I score using the MS tool. Then, I use my bone folder as the score tool, run that down the score line, pressing fairly hard. I then use the MS tool again. I try to make sure that my score is fairly deep. In some cases, I even use my wooden engraving tool for yet another run down the score line!

The reason for scoring is to stretch the paper fibers so when you fold them, they won't rip. What is happening for you is that either the photo paper you are using is not stretchable or is not stretching enough.

One more thing to keep in mind is that the opposite side of your score line will not look neat and tidy no matter what you do. It will always crinkle and wrinkle a bit. To see what I mean, take any greeting card you've received from anyone and examine the inside of the card--that score line will not be perfect. You are working on the outside score line only. If you really hate that inside fold, you can put in an insert made from text-weight paper to cover it. One hint on that, though, if you do use a double insert, one that covers both left and right sides of the card, make sure you tape it on one side only. If you tape the entire thing to the card, it will not look nice because the paper will move when you close the card, causing wrinkle issues if you tape the whole thing. I usually just run a line of DS tape down the left side of the card insert, and tape that side to the left side of the card itself, leaving the right side of the insert free. Just an idea.

If you have any further questions, let me know.

Also, you might want to watch my CUP TV episode here for more hints and tips on cardmaking and tools to use/how to use them.

Episode 45 - Jolis DeAngelis presents Tools of the Card Crafting Trade

Gwyneth George · 03-01-12, 03:30 PM

I have several scoring tools but have to admit that I use the Hougie Board most often. It has narrow groves and a pokey tool made to fit. The instructions are to score lightly and several times on both sides, and if you apply too much pressure the tool bends.

I do make a very small number of quick - print, cut, score, fold - cards where the base card is part of the printed out design sheet, but very rarely would this be printed out on photo paper, and on the whole I like more of a variety in my card making in terms of both finish, texture and colour, as well as card styles. One of my favourite cardstocks to make my base cards out of is Centura Pearl card (mostly Snow White though I have a small assortment of other colours). I do occasionally print onto it for a different effect, sometimes background designs to use as a base card, and sometimes more mystical images, such as fairies, angels, unicorns, misty scenes, as it gives a different finish. I also sometimes use the equivelent paper for a different finish to my inserts, or for backgrounds to use for layering rather than the whole card base. The card is 300gsm card (which I understand is Approx 130lb Cardstock weight in American terms), and I know it can be bought in the USA as the company that sells it here also has an USA web presence which you can see by clicking - here.

The 350gsm Silk Art Card is also a good one for base cards and matting and layering under flat toppers, decoupage, etc. but I'm not sure whether this is available in the USA, or if it is it may have another name.

I'm surprised to hear that good weight card doesn't appear to be readily available in the USA. Is this because Scrapbooking is the most common form of papercrafting and this doesn't require the heavier weight card because it's designed to be looked at as a page, whereas cards need to be sturdy enough to stand upright on a table or mantel piece without sagging or falling down no matter how much toppers and embelishments are on them? Just a thought I just had.

GG

Site Navigation

Help & Info

Copyright